Ballet once again inspires Chanel in a runway featuring tweed and tulle

The creative director of the brand, Virginie Viard, fuses tradition with avant-garde, creating looks that represent the elegance and femininity of women

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Por Carlota Castro Fariña
January 25, 2024

Chanel makes a sensation on the second day of the Haute Couture SS 2024 runway shows. Anticipation followed the release of the short film The Button, a cinematographic gem produced by pgLang and directed by Dave Free, set to the vibrant rhythm of Kendrick Lamar’s musical creations. The film reflects the inspirations behind the brand’s collection for this spring-summer. Actress, model and Chanel muse Margaret Qualley dazzled at the opening of the runway with an impeccable Pierrot neck silhouette.

The buttons, small functional gems that usually adorn Chanel’s creations, became the creative epicenter of this collection. Under a “lost button” from its distinctive jacket, they were reinvented in surreal dimensions. They stood out on a minimalist runway created by Kendrick Lamar, Dave Free and Mike Carson.

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Six dazzling white looks inaugurated the runway, led by Margaret Qualley. These silhouettes revived Chanel’s essential codes of Chanel: tweed, jewel buttons and a forward vision of what was to come. Dressed in white stockings and ethereal tulles, the models transformed into dancers

The collection immersed itself in soft lines and pastel tones, incorporating lace belts, small bows, sequins and floral embroidery. Among bodysuits, airy evening gowns and immaculate ballet stockings, Chanel unfolded an ode to femininity in its purest form.

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Dance, deeply rooted in Chanel’s history through the Paris Opera Ballet, exerted a powerful influence on the collection. Light and airy silhouettes with voluminous interplays of tulle, ruffles, pleats and lace highlighted the delicacy inherent in this realm. A contemporary homage to the creations of Gabrielle Chanel. Bows also added an extra dimension to the looks. In maxi dimensions and exclusively in black, they secured hairstyles and confirmed the bowcore trend that has dominating fashion in recent seasons.

Tulle skirts took center stage in the French house’s runway alongside embroideries, delicate transparencies and pastel colors. This sweet and feminine collection confirms that the Coquette trend will be one of the protagonists of 2024.

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The creative director, Virginie Viard, delves into the archives of the house to rescue the trademark tweed of Chanel. On this occasion, she plays with patterns to make them more delicate and feminine. Jackets are shortened and combined with other materials to counteract their effects. Haute Couture is meant for dreaming and, in this runway, the play with overlays and fabrics is a recurring detail.